Surf Science An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing by Tony Butt, published by University of Hawaii Press on March 31, 2014, is a comprehensive exploration of wave science tailored for surfers. This third edition, comprising 136 pages, delves into the origins and characteristics of waves, addressing questions about their formation and behavior. The book serves as a bridge between traditional surfing literature and academic texts on oceanography, making it accessible to readers without a scientific background.
Readers will find a detailed examination of the factors influencing wave patterns and surfing breaks, enhancing their understanding of the ocean’s dynamics. The content is designed for those with a curiosity about water sports and the science behind them, focusing on practical knowledge that can aid in predicting surf conditions. With its engaging approach, this edition of Surf Science provides valuable insights for both novice and experienced surfers interested in the interplay between science and their sport.
Official synopsis Publisher
Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you.
Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don’t need a scientific background to read it—just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
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